In the Garden Articles

Spring Planting

by Joan S. Bolton

What a difference a year makes.

Last April, we were waiting for the soil to dry out from late rains before we could begin spring planting.

This year, the ground has been dry for what seems like forever, and many of us have been eager to repair and replace plants damaged by frost and freezing temperatures.

Where to begin?

Start by figuring how you're going to deal with your damaged plants. Then you can have fun adding summer color.

Prune or Start Fresh

The simplest course is to cut off dead branches, then wait for your shrubs and trees to fill in. Look for evidence of any new growth, then prune just above it.

But if doing so results in a lopsided look or you don't want to wait for the recovery, replacements are in order. In that case, if you buy more of the same, you'll risk similar freeze damage in the future.

Instead, consider shifting to more bulletproof plants. Check the cold tolerance first. Plants that can withstand temperatures down to 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit would be wise.

Then look at their watering requirements.

While water conservation is important, it's even more important to match the watering needs of neighboring plants. You always have to irrigate for the thirstiest plant, whether the others need it or not. So planting a drought-tolerant Ceanothus in the midst of shrubs that prefer irrigation once or twice a week won't save water. In fact, it will shorten the life of the Ceanothus.

However, if you're ripping out swaths of plants or starting from scratch, proceed straight to the native and Mediterranean shrubs that require little summer water: Ceanothus, rockrose (Cistus), island snapdragon (Galvezia), toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia), lavender, evergreen currant (Ribes), rosemary, sage (Salvia) and the like.

Even there, though, you'll need to water regularly at first. I recently visited a year-old garden where nearly all the plants were dead. The homeowner had thought that because she'd planted natives, they'd never need watering. Ever.

A basic rule of thumb is that new plants need more water than ones that have become established. Their roots are smaller and more shallow, so they can't hold as much moisture and they dry out faster between waterings.

So if you're filling in bare spots among existing plantings, plan to provide supplemental water at first, regardless of the newcomers' eventual watering needs.

Summer Color

Now for the fun stuff. Local garden centers are busting out with summer color. April and May are terrific months to plant just about anything, including the tropicals and subtropicals that many of us love.

However, with the freeze more than a fading memory, consider whether you really want to choose such susceptible plants as agapanthus, bougainvillea, citrus, hibiscus, queen palm, star jasmine and the like, for the farther, more exposed reaches of your garden.

If you must have them, plant them in a sheltered location close to your house, where the radiant heat will help buffer the cold. Or plant them in large pots, which you can move temporarily onto a covered patio or into a garage.

Summer annuals aren't at risk. They will have grown, bloomed prolifically and died well before any cold weather. Look for ageratum, aster, cosmos, dianthus, impatiens, lobelia, marigold, nicotiana, petunia, sweet alyssum and zinnia. Planted now, they should bloom through the end of summer.

Any number of perennials can go in the ground, too, from billowy ornamental grasses to long-blooming marguerites, fragrant nemesias and low-growing bellflowers (Campanula). However, the selection might be a little thin until later in the summer, as the freeze damaged commercial growers' crops, too.

Camellias, azaleas and gardenias suffered no such fate. Now is a great time to buy the hardy shrubs because you can see what their flowers look like, rather than relying on flowery descriptions. The same goes for mighty wisteria. The drought-tolerant, deciduous vines are in bloom now. Chinese wisteria begins blooming before the leaves emerge, while Japanese wisteria blooms during and after the leaves appear.

With the soil warming up, you can plant summer-blooming bulbs, including calla lily, canna, dahlia, gladiolus, tigridia, tuberose and tuberous begonia. You can also cut back any remaining spring bulb foliage after at least half the leaves have withered.

Inland, it's fine to begin planting summer vegetables, including tomatoes, peppers and beans. If you live in a cooler coastal area, wait until May to put in your summer crops.

Fertilizer and Other Chores

Warmer temperatures and lengthening days spur new growth in most plants.

Spread a slow-release, granular fertilizer around the root zones of your perennials, shrubs and trees to give them a boost.

Fertilize your roses now, and again after each round of blooms.

Below your feet, turf grasses are growing fast. Fertilize your existing lawn, repair any bald spots or lay new sod, and the new turf will root out quickly.

Pruning will also bring speedy results. Make your cuts just above new, outward-facing buds.

In addition, replenish mulch that has broken down over winter. And check your irrigation controller. Water first thing in the morning, before any wind can blow the water astray.

Seeds of Wisdom

If you want to create a dry garden but can't bear to give up your delphiniums, hibiscus or other thirsty plants, group them together, so you can water them all at once. Or plant them around a lawn, where they'll benefit from the overspray and underground migration of water. Or cluster them in pots, so their extra irrigation won't taint the water-conserving plants in the ground.