In the Garden Articles

Classic Camellias

by Joan S. Bolton

Copyright, text, Joan S. Bolton. Copyright, Photos, Joan S. Bolton and Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center. All rights reserved. Reproduction of text or photos in any form is prohibited without written permission.

Legend has it that the Chinese first brewed tea leaves from the common tea plant, Camellia sinensis, nearly 5,000 years ago.

But it was only a few hundred years ago that camellias caught on in the western world, to be bred for their flowers and grown solely for their beauty.

Stroll through any older Central Coast neighborhood this spring, and you're bound to spot at least a few mature camellias tucked beneath eaves or on the north side of a house. The tall, graceful, evergreen shrubs are covered in flowers now, in shades of pink, red or white. Some bear petals edged in contrasting colors, while others show blotches, stripes or ruffles. All sit flat, on top of dark green, glossy foliage that stays neat year-round.

With centuries of breeding, there are literally hundreds of different camellias. Spring is an excellent time to buy, as you can see many of the plants in bloom.

Getting Started

The most widespread camellias belong to the species Camellia japonica. These are the traditional shade-loving shrubs that make excellent foundation plants. They flourish in northern or eastern exposures, where they'll tolerate direct sunlight in the morning, but not for the rest of the day.

In late winter and early spring, japonicas bear long-lasting flowers that measure the width of a teacup, up to that of a saucer. When it comes time for judging, the flowers are also classified as single, semi-double, formal double, peony form, anemone form or rose form. The form depends on the number and arrangement of both the petals and the stamens in the center.

But for the home gardener, what's most important is whether you like the flower. In general, the form has nothing to do with how well a particular japonica will perform.

However, if you live near the coast, you might think twice as hard before planting the formal doubles, as there's some debate as to whether the flowers will fully open in the mildest areas. I once went toe-to-toe with a reader who insisted that the large, pale-pink double flowers of Pearl Maxwell refused to open anywhere on the Central Coast. Yet my very own Pearl Maxwell, planted less than a mile from the ocean, bloomed reliably until a renegade gopher caused its untimely demise. And Nuccio's Gem, a pure white double formal, blooms beautifully next door.

Other japonicas to look for include Kramer's Supreme, which bears large, rosy-red peony-like flowers, and Scensation, a medium-pink peony whose blooms produce a fresh, sweet scent.

In Brighter Light

Japonica camellias are best in shade. But if your garden is on the sunny side, there are other species that will hold up well. Both Camellia sasanqua and Camellia hiemalis cultivars thrive in bright light, or even full sun. Neither species bears flowers as large as the japonicas and the flowers tend to shatter if you brush up against them. But they still bloom in the clear pinks, reds and whites, and their glossy green leaves are every bit as tidy throughout the year.

These two species also bloom several months earlier than the japonicas, starting as early as October and continuing through the first of the year. Some form a nice, waist-high ground cover, such as White Doves, a white-blooming sasanqua, and Shishi Gashira, a rose-red hiemalis. Both grow about 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. Others form upright shrubs, such as Yuletide, which bears cherry-red single flowers at Christmas, and Kanjiro, which produces pale-pink flowers edged in dark pink.

Growers often list hiemalis camellias as sasanquas. Either way, the named varieties are the same.

Planting Time

Regardless of whether they prefer sun or shade, all camellias like the same growing conditions: slightly acidic soil, good drainage and lots of moisture.

Keep in mind that most species are native to China and southeast Asia, where they're routinely subjected to summer monsoon rains.

Here on the Central Coast, terrific drainage is paramount. That's because while the roots like nearly constant moisture, if the soil is too soggy, all that water will restrict the air flow within the soil and the roots -- and plants -- will suffer.

Dig a hole two to three times as wide as the container and about one and a half times as deep. Amend the soil with loose organic material such as leaf mold, peat moss or fine-textured bark. Build up a cone in the center of the hole so that when you place your camellia on top, its crown -- where the roots meet the trunk -- is 1 to 2 inches above the soil level beyond the planting hole. This will compensate for any settling after planting.

Loosen any roots that are winding around the root ball, place the camellia on top of the cone and fill the hole with the amended material. Build a berm at least 2 feet in diameter around the camellia and water thoroughly. Fill the basin with mulch, but don't pile it against the trunk. Then soak again.

Care and Feeding

For the first few years, deep-soak your camellias at least once a week. Over time, they will require less water. Established plants in older gardens may get zero supplemental irrigation, yet still seem to thrive. However, they won't bloom as prolifically as they would with regular care.

Start fertilizing when new growth appears, which is typically in April. Cottonseed meal or a mix specially formulated for camellias is best. Apply the fertilizer every six to eight weeks through September, always making sure that your plants have been watered well first. If there's any doubt, irrigate one day, then fertilize the next.

Camellias need little pruning, although there's a wonderful bit of advice that sounds much like a Chinese proverb: "A camellia should be pruned so a bird can fly through it."

Wait to prune until just after your camellias have finished blooming. Use sharp pruners to remove any dead or non-productive twigs. Then cut out just enough material to allow air and light to circulate within. This will stimulate new growth and create a healthier plant.

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Beware the Blight

Camellias are susceptible to few pests.

Instead, their number-one problem is petal blight, an infuriating fungus that causes the flowers to get brown spots or turn completely brown from the center out, then fall off.

The spore-borne disease, Ciborinia camelliae Kohn, spreads by the slightest puff of wind. It shows up as tiny brown dots that grow ever larger during warm weather.

The best line of defense is to pinch off and pick up every last affected petal and flower. After the bloom season, rake up everything beneath your camellias -- including the mulch -- and toss it into your green waste. Do not compost the material. Then apply a fresh, untainted layer of mulch.

This should help prevent the fungus from overwintering, then rising up the following year.

A more drastic control is to avoid japonica camellias altogether, and plant sasanqua and hiemalis camellias instead. These two species bloom earlier, during cooler weather, when the fungus is not active.

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Seeds of Wisdom

White and pale pink-blooming camellias require more shade than do the deeper pink and red-blooming varieties.

Copyright, text, Joan S. Bolton. Copyright, photos, Joan S. Bolton and Netherlands Flower Bulb Information Center. All rights reserved. Reproduction of text or photos in any form is prohibited without written permission.